Wines of McLaren Vale

Posted on October 21, 2024 by The Wine Commander

I had the pleasure to revisit the McLaren Vale region of South Australia and visit a number of smaller producers – after all that’s where gems can be found.

The first settlers to the region included a Charles Hewitt who established Oxenberry Farm in 1839. It remains a working vineyard with a restaurant which had a varied and interesting menu. Worth a stop over.

Changers are a foot in McLaren Vale with Fiano on everyone’s lips. Almost all makers in the Vale are dabbling in the variety attempting to perfect it and come up with a local style. Grenache, the work horse of McLaren Vale which never disappoints is now a shining light.

So, lets start the visitations:

Inkwell Wines

One of Australia’s first regenerative organic certified vineyards with an objective to become  net negative carbon producers. Dudley and Irina Brown (pictured) are passionate about their wine which is all hand picked. Interesting there were two Primitivo’s. 2021 Infidels Primitivo very perfumed nose. with very ripe fruit 89/100 $32.00. 2021 Road to Joy Shiraz Primitivo. 85% primitivo and 15% shiraz was big through the palate of plum, blackberry and was quite savoury. 89/100 $30.00. 2021 Pressure Drop Cabernet exhibited a fruit explosion of cherry, coconut with a smooth finish. Great structure. Bargain 94/100. $40.00

Pirramimma

Generations of the Johnson family have nurtured this vineyard since 1892 and now Geoff Johnson with more than 50 vintages at Pirramimma has bought out the family and now has sole ownership.

Geoff (pictured right) pioneered the Petit Verdot grape variety in Australia and also introduced Tannat to the Vale. Better known for its Stocks hill range it was the Petit Verdot I put to the test. The 2018 Ironside Petit Verdot had dark fruit of  red currents and blackberry. Powerful body with delightful tannins. 95/100. $70.00. 2020 ACI Icon Blend Cabernet Petit Verdot. Wow! Palate rich and powerful, hint of French oak, cassis, plum and cedar. 96/100. $95.00. The 2020 White Label Petit Verdot was dark but I found it dirty 89/100. $40.00. The 2020 Ironside Low Trellis Shiraz. A monster, intense nose, toffee, spice. 95/100. $70.00.

Serafino

A big commercial show spotting 30 wines over 14 different varieties from six owned vineyards. But all well priced. 2024 Bellissimo Fiano. Lemon and citrus throughout, but crisp, clean and rounded. One of the better Vale examples. 90/100. Bargain. $25.00.  2022 Black label Reserve Grenache. Crammed with cherry, plum and blackberry but soft treatment. Nice. 92/100. $38.00. 2022 Black Label GSM. (Grenache, Shiraz and Mataro). Sweet and peppery with ripe berries with good length. 90/100. $30.00. 2019 Sharktooth Shiraz. Big powerful nose of dark fruit, chocolate and vanilla up front. Yum. 95/100. $65.00.

Bekkers

This was the find of my trip. Winemakers Emmanuelle and partner Toby Bekker were in France where Emmanuelle does a vintage each year and were not available. However I did get to try: 2022 McLaren Vale Grenache. Medium bodied and succulent. great texture, length, flavours and tannins. 97/100. $85.00. 2022 McLaren Vale Syrah Grenache. Bigger than the straight Grenache with hints of pepper and liquorice, long finish, beautiful blend. 96/100. $85.00. 2021 McLaren Vale Syrah. Jumps out of the glass, dark, spicy, with great intensity. Based on a French Rhone style I was told and finishes smooth. A winner. 98/100. Well worth $120.00. 2021 Clarendon Syrah showed dense black fruit, lots of power, fine tannins and elegant. Wonderful cool climate shiraz. 99/100. $295.00. OK these are expensive but well worth the pleasure they bring. All strongly recommended.

Hugh Hamilton

They have got a big reputation for producing the Georgian grape Saperavi. It is a dark skinned grape variety, with intense colour and  marked acidity. It is mostly found in the cooler climates of continental Europe but Hans Herzog Estate in Marlborough, NZ produce an outstanding example. It is also grown in Victoria with mixed results.

2022 The oddball Saperavi. A unique flavour of liquorice, aniseed, chocolate and other black fruits. 93/100. $60.00. 2021 Black Ops Shiraz Saperavi. 14.9%. Almost pitch black in the glass, blackberry, hints of pepper, spice, a ripper with great mouth feel and delicious. Bargain. 94/100. $40.00. 2024 The Loose Cannon Fiano. Peaches, lemon and pears. Crisp and clean. Nice. 92/100. $24.00. 2023 The Disrupter Grenache. Big fruit explosion through the palate all cherries and was too fruity for me. 89/100. $32.00.

Kay Brothers

I have been a mailing list customer for more than 20 years and have stayed on the property, so it was a delight to catch up with Colin Kay again and newly appointed CEO Elspeth Kay who hosted. Their timeless labels reflects their timeless style. 2024 Fiano. Stone fruits and citrus with peach.90/100. $22.00. 2021 Basket Press Grenache. Intense nose of rose petals, strawberry and raspberries, smooth. 93/100. $28.00. 2021 Griffons Key Grenache. Serious show here with rose petals, dark cherries, hint of spice and rich flavour. 93/100. $60.00. 2021 Cuthbert Cabernet. 14.5%. Last made in 2011 and a Halliday top 100 wine, this was the standout of the tasting for me. Bold, with loads of plum, blackberry and cassis with hint of oak and chocolate. 96/100. $45.00. 2021 Hillside Shiraz. Chocolate, blackberries and plum scream out with hints of pepper and oak. 96/100. $49.00. 2021 Block 6 Shiraz. Full bodied, liquorice and the usual suspects of chocolate, blackberry, plum fruit, vanilla, hints of pepper. At least 10 year window. 97/100. $125.00. At this price there is quality for price elsewhere. Keep for 10-15 years and decant.

Olivers Taranga

The testing room was very busy and with limited time my hostess did not allow me to make a full assessment of the many wines available. I can report the Estate Fiano, Chico Rose, Mencia, Grenache, Vermentino all scored less that 89/100. Bottles open too long?

However the 2024 Falanghina a new white Italian grape variety to Australia was quite approachable. Nutty, with hints of nectarine, lemon and sweet tang to finish. 90/100. $35.00. The 2022 RW Bush Vines Grenache was light, and quite floral but juicy raspberries dominated. Succulent and easy drinking. 93/100. $75.00.

Dandelion Vineyards

A relatively young Vale vineyard founded in 2007 which selects fruit from five regions for its large range of 27 wines. All wines were at 20% off. Sifting through them 2024 Honeypot Barossa Roussanne had pronounced citrus nose, lots of lemon overpowering which faded quickly. 88/100. $22.00.

2023 Twilight of Adelaide Chardonnay. Perfumed nose and showing orange and apricot with restrained oak. 89/100. $22.00. I switched to the superior Firehawk Farm range, 2023 Firehawk Tree of McLaren Grenache which was far more exciting. Quite fruity, with plum, red fruit with vanilla finish but smooth through the palate. 94/100. $95.00. 2022 Firehawk of McLaren Shiraz. Nice oak treatment, with vanilla, tobacco, blackberry and plum. Typical regional shiraz. 95/100. $48.00.

Bondar Wines

In 2014 Andre and Selina Bondar purchased the old Rayner Vineyard and with it, old 1950 Shiraz and Grenache vines. Since then they have added more bush vine Grenache, Mataro, Carignan, Touriga and Sagrantino.

The wines are reasonably priced and attractive as they concentrate on the lesser known McLaren Vale plantings. However I opted for the older planted vines. 2022 Higher Springs Grenache. Ripe black fruit was quite fruity with raspberry and cherries dominating. Nevertheless was smooth and nice soft tannins to round off. 93/100. $75.00. 2022 Clarendon Shiraz sourced from the rich Hickinbotham vineyard in Clarendon which is revered in the region. Blueberries, spice, great length, hint of pepper. perfumed and smooth. Nice. 95/100. $75.00.

Noon 

There are few places where there is a waiting list to buy and a waiting list to go on the waiting list such is the quality and these extraordinary low priced and quality wines. The partnership of Drew and Rae Noon continued the family business from 1996 and only make full bodied reds from small vineyard blocks. They do everything on the vineyard themselves down to personally hand picking the bush Grenache.  They are passionate and are not price driven rather to make wine for  enjoyment.

They only open on two weekends of the year and queues form before the cellar door opens. Being a long term customer I was very privileged they allowed me to join them for a tasting. 2023 Eclipse. A blend of 90% Grenache, 6% Shiraz and 4% Graciano. Wow what a wine. Loaded with plum, chocolate, liquorice, gentle oak and spice. Bargain. 98/100. $30.00. 2023 Reserve Cabernet. Aromas of blackcurrants and cedar, has great depth, length and elegance, rich through the palate. 97/100. $30.00. 2023 M2M (Minute to Midnight). Their own own Langhorne Creek grapes were struggling to reach full ripeness so they joined forces with two friends to make this luscious blend of Langhorne Creek Shiraz. It is big, bold, dark and handsome. 92/100. $25.00. I urge you to seek all these out!  Get on the waiting list! Their commitment to quality is such that due to the unusually cool and extended growing season the 2023 Reserve Shiraz was not made as it did not meet their exacting quality standards.

Aphelion Wines

Wine making team of Rob Mack and wife Louise launched Aphelion in 2015. Prior to launching the winery Rob took research trips to California, Oregon, Italy, South Africa, NZ and Italy working at many vineyards and now has realised his dream.

In a first for me the tasting was conducted off the back of his ute with his Welkin vineyard looking on. Young vines need time to develop so most of the cheaper ($28.00) Welkin Range can be found in pubs and some restaurants. 2022 Brini Single Site Grenache. Bright and fresh hint of red fruit, quite fruity but savoury and good length. 92/100. $90.00. 2020 Affinity GSM. Dark in colour, earthy plum and charcoal. Not my style. 89/100. $40.00. 2021 Emergent Mataro. Bright red colour with big cherry flavours, perfume and plum leap out. 90/100. $42.00. 2022 Hickinbotham Single Site Grenache. Another gem from the Clarendon Hickinbotham site. Plenty of drive and length, raspberry, plum, cherry and mint tang linger. 95/100. $90.00.Keep an eye on this producer and the price which is on the higher side of value.

Hugo Wines

The original estate was purchased in 1860 and since then has remained in the family with Will Hugo and Renae Hirsch as current winemakers. The 50 acre vineyard is one of the most eastern in McLaren Vale and being 175 metres above sea level produce cooler sub climate wines.

Winemaker Will Hugo

2024 Fiano. Absolutely delightful with grapefruit, ripe bananas on nose which carries through with clean crisp dry finish. 94/100. $25.00. Bargain. 2022 Johnny Block Shiraz. Fruit for this wine is destined for the Reserve Shiraz but spends less time on oak and displayed more fruit characters. 89/100. $40.00. 2021 Reserve Shiraz. Juicy black current and plums, rich cherries and chocolate, hint of spice upfront. 94/100. $55.00. 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon. From the coolest part of the vineyard which resulted in a longer ripening period. Medium bodied, blackberries, toffee, cassis. dominate a nice balanced palate. 92/100. $28.00. Bargain.

A winery worth following and the best value for money.

Conclusion

Fiano is an emerging varietal in the region but still a work in progress. Everyone is having a crack at it and a regional style will eventually emerge.  Grenache is indeed the work horse and is producing wines the are earthy, savoury with great fruit treatment. The best region in Australia for Grenache. Whereas only 7% Grenache is grown in McLaren Vale 55% is under Shiraz. Its unique regional characteristics of blackberry, raspberry, blackcurrants and liquorice with hints of pepper and spice continue to please consumers worldwide.

Let me know your thoughts on this McLaren Vale blog by responding in the comments section on this page. Enjoy.

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Pinotage Odyssey in Stellenbosch

Posted on October 7, 2024 by The Wine Commander

Pinotage became a unique South African grape variety when a Professor of viticulture at Stellenbosch University crossed the varieties of Pinot and cinsault (Shiraz). But it took until 1941 until the first Pinotage wine was made. Some international acclaim was made in 1959 and because of that vast plantings were made but alas most struggled with the variety. Two British MW’s visited the Cape in 1976 and declared the variety had no future, so many producers uprooted large plantings of exisiting vines while only a few struggled on. With this brief introduction lets see what I discovered.

Constantia 

Our first stop. Constantia is a well-known wine-producing area and one of the oldest in the southern hemisphere. It is home to at least ten vineyards known locally as farms. Groot vineyard was planted in (yes) 1685 but as was explained the terrior is not really suited to Pinotage. However I did taste the 2022  Pinotage which was thin, with sharp tannins and a smelly strawberry taste. no score. My disappointment was noted so a 2012 was opened which was a revelation. Deep red in colour, slightly smokey and still forward with plum and vanilla, spice on the palate and smooth finish. 94/100. A$n/a. 2023 Sauvignon Blanc. As you know I generally can’t stand this style but what a surprise! Unlike the grassy versions from down under this showed gooseberries, peach and kiwi fruit. It was rich with crisp, fresh acidity. Absolutely delightful.93/100. A21.00.

Stark-Conde. 

A local friend and  sommelier recommended this vineyard as the best producer of Cabernet in the Cape. This organic high altitude vineyard nestled beside a picturesque lake showed their Cabernet Sauvignon range inside an island tasting cabin. Nice start. (apologies for the brochure photo). South African Cabernet Sauvignon show the typical

profile flavours of black currant, cherry, a dust of pepper with hints of cedar and tobacco. The two standouts were 2022 Tree Pines Cabernet. Beautifully textured with a smooth silky structure and floral finish.95/100. A55.00. 2022 Oude Nektar Cabernet. From Stellenbosch’s highest (550m)vineyard. Beautiful aromas cassis, violets and orange. Robust with big gripping tannins, black fruit enhances the length. Not for the faint hearted. 97/100. $67.00

Neil Ellis

Neil Ellis began sourcing grapes in 1984 and now selects from 4 regions, Piekenierskloof, Groenekloof, Stellenbosch and Elgin. Big show with 15 wines for tasting and picking the eyes out was hard.

2020 Bottelary Pinotage. Was totally different to Constantia. Dark plum. young red berries, sharp. But is this pinotage? 88/100.  $40.00.  2020 Stellenbosch Cabernet. Another cabernet of intense flavour of black berries, cedar and liquorice. Built to last and needs decanting. 92/100. A28.00. (Bargain). The 2022 Whitehall Chardonnay green fresh apples with cream went down well. 90/00. A35.00

Rustenberg Wines

Its first vintage was in 1781 and now make 20 different wines split into three distinct ranges. I just had to try the 2023 Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc – after all the Cape is renown for this variety. Distinct pineapple and pear finishing quite crisp and fresh. Nondescript. 89/100. A$12.00. 2021 Peter Barlow Cabernet from the Rustenberg site. Outstanding balance of oak which enhanced the fruit aromas and nice weight. Lovely. 90/100. A$68.00.2022  Stellenbosch John X Merriman from the flagship range. A Bordeaux blend predominantly Cabernet and Merlot. I found plenty of cigar and tobacco through the palate and sour cherry overtones. Lingered and full mouth flavour and was nicely balanced. I was told to wait 15 years for this to blossom. Sorry can’t wait that long. 92/100. A$30.00. Bargain.

L’Avenir Estate

Headed here as it is renowned for its Pinotage and Chenin Blanc. Located on the slopes of the Simonsberg mountains. It is a big show with wine interests worldwide, located beside a lake with plenty of space and facilities for functions.

2022 Provenance Chenin Blanc. A blend from its 3 premium vineyards, straw in colour, peach and melon and crisp citrus finish. Nice. 92/100. A$16.00. 2021 Single Block Chenin Blanc. Generous in flavour that hangs around. Enjoy the toasty overtones if you dare but most agreeable. 91/100. A$45.00. 2022 Provenance Pinotage. Light in colour, dominated with cherries and soft everywhere. 88/100. A$18.00. 2022 Horizon Pinotage. Vines are trellised very low to the ground to develop thicker skins. Those cherries (again) dominated in a dusty, bitter flavour. 87/100. A$22.00. 2020 Single Block Pinotage. Deep colour. full of flavour, excellent balance through the palate. Nice oak and hints of spice. Loved it. 94/100. A$70.00. I must also say the 2023 Single Block Glenrose had Provence all over it. Brown onion skin colour,  strawberries and raspberries made this a great Rose. 92/100. A$30.00.

Lanzerac Wine Estate

Home of the first bottled Pinotage in the world and combines a hotel with a wine estate.  Spread over expansive grounds with magnificent vista, this is another big show – well most are. In 2017 a fire burnt down the main operations but is now bigger with a spa, hotel, restaurant and deli. But what of the wines?

 2023 Pinotage Rose. Free run juice with pronounced perfume, rose petals and crushed strawberries. Not my bag. 89/100. $11.00. 2021 Pinotage. Deep colour and rich chocolate, with caramel and was juicy. Again a different slant on Pinotage. 90/100.S24.00. 2o20 Cabernet Sauvignon had hints of cocoa, but was also big, bold and spicy. Drink now style. 90/100. A$24.00.

 Ernie Els Wines

Worth the visit just for the panoramic views of Cape Town and Table Mountain to the left, Stellenbosch and Helderberg mountains to the right plus a top class restaurant for lunch on the open deck. Only got to try two wines with lunch – the 2023 Big Easy Chenin Blanc a light and crisp, apple, pears, refreshing  and uncomplicated. 92/100. A$14.50. And the 2022 Major Series Cabernet Sauvignon. Plenty of plum lurking with nice tannins with cassis and blackcurrant. Big and bold. 94/100. A$30.00.

Winemaker Elsa du Plessis shows her Pinotage.

Beyerskloof

The Queen of Pinotage generously showed me 5 wines, the best, from 4 ranges. 2022 Beyerskloof Pinotage. Deep ruby red with strong red berries and plum notes. Drinking well but not complex. 89/100. AS12.00.  2022 Reserve Pinotage. Dark red, toasty with excellent balance and a nice juicy after taste. 93/100. A$22.00. Bargain. 2022 Winemakers Reserve Pinotage. Complex, soft on the palate, nice balance and after taste gentle cherries and plum. 94/100. A$35.00. 2022 Kriekbult Pinotage. Nice aromas of red berries. Another with fine balance and lingering mouth feel. 90/100. A$50.00. 2022 Traildust Cape Blend of 33% Pinot Noir. 34% Pinotage and 33% Cinsaut. Again the trend of cherries and plum continue but this had a commercial feel about it being nondescript. 89/100. A$22.00. Chatting to Elsa there is no doubt she is passionate about Pinotage and its future having a consistent profile.

Kanonkop Wine Estate

Known in the Cape as the first growth wineyard. 2021 Paul Sauer Blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Full bodied as the  depth of flavour offered by these 3 grapes shines through. Spent 24 months in new French oak before 12 months in the bottle before release. Black current notes and cigar box result in firm tannins and a lingering finish. Delicious. 95/100. A$90.00 and worth it. They heavily promote magnums all the way to Salmanazar (9 litres). Refer to pix.

Photo of macaroons

Blaauwklippen 

Located at the foothills of the Stellenbosch mountains the estate covers 115 acres. You can find accomodation, a market, bike path, gym and vineyards and wine. Twelve varieties in fact which have been planted since 1682. A Sauvignon Blanc 86/100 was cut grass, a Rose 84/100 tannic, lacked fruit, Zinfandel 86/100 sulphur, Cabernet 89/100 very sweet berries and finished dry. 2018 DBK Bordeaux Blend. Classic Bordeaux blend, full bodied, cigar box, plum and chocolate and excellent length but was green on the finish which spoilt the experience. 88/100. A$31.00. 2024 Chenin Blanc. Peach and lemon and even pineapple gave a tasty finish. 90/100. A$13.00. Reverted to a selection of 2 gins which with local tonic water made up for the visit.

Conclusion

I found the Pinotage a very mixed bag and lacked consistency in profile which made it hard to determine’ what is pinotage’? Conversely Chenin Blanc which is the most widely grown grape in SA basically varied between sweet and dry and could all be distinguished with its flavours of Granny Smith apple, pear and tropical fruit.

The Cape Dutch architecture and history of many of the winery estates  was interesting in itself and the visas from them breathtaking and to the equal of any region in the world.

I recommend this destination for any bucket list.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Frebch oakand

h

 

 

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Retropective Wynns Black Label tasting

Posted on May 27, 2024 by The Wine Commander

The annual release of Wynns Coonawarra wines known as Wynnsday is officially Wednesday 5th June, 2024. However I was privileged to a preview of three of their icon wines with Wynns Senior Winemaker, Sue Hodder (left) as part of a retrospective Black Label tasting arranged by Melbourne’s Wine Table at the Danish Club recently.

Sue said that, “the 2022 vintage was a high-quality year without any obvious climate change impacts, so this presented a fabulous opportunity for my team to truly bring our creative winemaking style to the fore”.

She explained that the 2024 Wynnsday Collection is one of the best range of wines that have been released in her time at Wynns. “In over three decades at Wynns, I have seen some very fine wines produced, but this year’s release are well and truly amongst the best” she said in presenting three of the new release wines.

Wynns Messenger Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2021  A classically styled single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, refined and brooding, with beautifully loaded  blackcurrant, mint and perfumed aromas with a firm backbone of French oak. The palate is long with   fine tannins underpinning the fruit which shows superb length through the palate. 97/100. $80

Wynns Black Label ‘Old Vines’ Shiraz 2022

Calm, elegant, restrained and assured nose. Black and green olive nuances edge to spiced licorice. Thick swathes of dark berry and plum fruit. Creamy oak and a little dried peel. Full, yet structured and elegant. Cool climate dark fruit with savoury etching. Acid is refreshing and cleansing while the tannins exquisitely knit. Oak spice like a deft touch of seasoning. Superb now, with a fine track record of ageing so well. 91/100. $45

Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 

Wynns Black Label Cabernet is a true icon of Australian wine. First produced in 1954, it has a reputation for ageing gracefully and displaying excellent varietal and regional characteristics. Sue said that the wine is produced from only the top quality 20 to 25% of Cabernet Sauvignon fruit grown in their terra rossa vineyards. It is a favourite in auction circles and is one of Australia’s most collectable wines.

The tasting retrospectively then started. Please bear in mind these wines with the exception of the 2022 came from private cellars. The to be released 2022 was deep purple, clean, loaded with fruit dominated with plum and blackberry aromas and a hint of mint and chocolate. Frankly don’t bother drinking this now as it will need 6 – 8 yers to integrate. 10 years plus. 95/100. $45.

 1990  Black Label. Developed complex nose of dried fruit, blood red in colour, dry finish, soft through the palate, still drinking well but finished short as you would expect. Drink now. 90/100.  1998 Black Label. Nice deep dark purple colour. Still going strong with slightly closed nose, good length, rich complex palate of cassis, vanilla, and hints of dark berries and savoury. Retains good length too. Outstanding. 98/100. The 1999 Black label vintage was touted to be better than 98 but this bottle disappointed. The nose was volatile.

It may have benefited with a couple of hours in a decanter but initially it lacked palate depth and the tell tale signs of blackberry and eucalyptus were missing. There are better examples of the 99 out there. 88/100.

2006 Black label. Sue explained this was the beginning of a new era of Wynns winemaking. A cooler year, the nose was slightly closed but fruit was well structured in the classic Wynns style. Concentrated dark fruits and mint, it was smooth, long and well balanced. A ripper. Plus 3 years.  97/100. 2010 Black label. Sue said this was a bad year.but was a lovely deep colour. Plum and red berries on the nose. Good weight through the middle although this drifted away. Great drinking now.95/100. 2012 Black label. Full complex nose of blackberries and liquorice which descended through the palate. Big bold and robust red, drinking well now but will continue over the next 5 years. A wonderful example of this consistently great linage of Black Labels. 95/100. 2013 Black label. “This was wine that disappeared under the radar’, Sue explained. “It was a late bloomer and needs plenty of time to open out”, she said. This bottle was rich with dark fruits and a hint of toffee, well balanced and nice acidity up front. Loved it. 95/100.

2015 Black label. Perfumed nose with deep blood red colour. Full flavour black current, plum and liquorice. Nice long finish. Plus 6. 94/100. 2016 Black Label. From a dry drought year. Has plenty of work to peak in front of it Big, bold and complex ripe fruit with obvious tannin and a hint of aniseed. Chewy. Loved it plus 10. 97/100. 2019 Black label. Dense colour of vivid purple hue. Bursting with rich. chewy fruit. Complex and full and developing beautifully. Outstanding. 98/100.

In Conclusion.

There is no doubt Wynns flagship ‘peoples’ Cabernet rightly deserves its place as the most popular and consistent in its stable. The messenger was absolutely delightful and the best in this line up were the 1998, 2006, 2016 and 2019 Black label. Enjoy.

Posted in Features, Wine tastings | Leave a comment

Extensive Margaret River Tasting

Posted on May 25, 2023 by The Wine Commander

I was delighted to visit the Margaret River region in May on a mission to concentrate on chardonnay and cabernet/blends. The first thing I quickly realised was the abundance of the Gingin clone which originated from the Côte d’Or, France and is the backbone of all most every WA Chardonnay.

The Gingin clone was the first Chardonnay planted in the Margaret River region in 1975. International fame followed when Decanter Magazine gave its highest recommendation to the Leeuwin Estate 1981 “Art Series” Chardonnay made by prominent winemaker Bob Cartwright. The nose expresses pronounced aromas of tropical fruit, citrus, and toasted almond. The mouthfeel is rich and textured yet fresh at the same time. This expression was evident in most of the chardonnays I tasted particularly at the top end.

Conversely it is the Houghton clone which dominates most WA Cabernets. This originated from the Houghton vineyard in the Swan Valley in about 1968. It often displays lower vigour vines, lower yields and smaller berries which give it that wonderful flavour and great intensity. It generally displays less herbaceous characters and a lovely density with classic, blackcurrant and cassis characters and certainly demonstrates that ‘power and elegance’ are not necessarily mutually exclusive.

With those thoughts in mind lets get on with the job.

Evoi

Nigel Ludlow, the winemaker started Evoi Wines in 2007 with 2 barrels of Chardonnay and now makes 14 different styles – probably too many – and he does very much everything. His standouts were a 2018 Reserve Malbec, 2018 Reserve Cabernet and 2014, a blend of Cab/Petit Verdot/Malbec all 89/100. all $69. Due to the elevation of a block of Cabernet he is ripping it out and will replace it with Chardonnay.

Voyager Estate

This huge estate is dominated by a Dutch inspired mansion, similar to those found in Stellenbosch  SA. I was told they planted 60,000 trees throughout the property.

Formed in 1978 this certified organic producer had two outstanding wines.

The 2022 Coastal Chardonnay had layers of lemon, grapefruit, citrus and gentle toastiness with a refreshing finish. 93/100. VALUE. $30.

However the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon with just 65% Merlot was one of the best I tried during my 4 day visit. Black currant and chocolate on the nose and a palate of elegance, balance complexity and fruit power. 96/100. $95. Wonderful.

Worth a visit to stroll around the vast estate and look at the kitchen garden.

Fermoy Estate

One of the up and coming wineries in the region with a wide selection of sparkling, whites and reds.  I did not try them all but a Sparkling Brut Rose, a 2022 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blend, a 2021 Reserve Chardonnay and a 2021 Estate Shiraz full of plum and pepper were enjoyable.

Claire on cellar door duty was great and recommended the 2022 Estate Chardonnay 90/100 VALUE $27. Peach, citrus and salted cashew. Yum. Also the 2018 Estate Cabernet loaded with mulberry and chocolate. 90/100 $50. The 2018 Reserve Cabernet was closed and needs more time to come together. There is also a gourmet shop adjacent which showcased local produce

Marq Wines

Renowned local winemaker Mark Warren (pictured below), embraces  lesser-known varietals such as  Gamay, Fino, Sparking Vermentino, Appassimento and Gros Manseng to Chardonnay and Cabernet, the Margaret River classics. The stand out was the 2022 Verdelho.Visit : Marq Wines 90/100. VALUE $25  A young,  refreshing wine with abundant flavour and a creamy texture. There is a distinct chalky minerality to the palate which displays flavours of citrus, fig, nectarine gooseberry and lemonade with notes of brioche and passionfruit. Winery not to be discarded when in the region.

Leeuwin Estate

Another glorious vista as you enter this expansive estate with a classy cellar door tasting room and an upmarket art gallery. Then you can ponder the quality and extraordinary high prices of the Art Series range. I am not saying that they are not worth it but when you have an elevated pedigree and a reputation with consumers why not?

Kerry Clift, the Cellar Door Manager was quite happy to pour all the range for tasting including the Art Series. Let’s start with those. The 2020 Art Series Chardonnay 96/100. $152 and 2019 Art Series Cabernet 95/100. $96. Both class acts with the Cabernet a reasonable price for the elevated perfumed and fragrant nose, backed up with cherries and black currant. More in my price range was the Prelude range with 2021 Chardonnay 92/100. $39. the pick. Cut lime and pear dominate the nose with evidence of grapefruit, lime and lemon finishing things off.

Mr Barval

I was keen to go there due to Robert Gherardi, a 3rd generation Italian has been around the traps – Mosswood, Brown Hill, Cullen and Elio Altare in Barolo in various wine making roles. He bought the distresed winery 2 years ago after it was run down with an objective of producing world class wines.

Kelly hosted and boy was she enthusiastic in promoting the wines particularly the Nebbiolo ($40) which Robert fell in love with during his 2 years in Barolo. Alas, his objective of recreating a Piemonte classic has much work ahead of it. The Cabernet had a vegetable nose, was green but an undertow of mixed fruit and was overpriced at $90.

Deep Woods

One of the 11 wineries owned by the Fogarty Group. Interesting portfolio of wines here ranging from a very light, drink now Cabernet Franc $40, to a Grand Selection Yallingup Cabernet $130. The first that caught my attention was the 2021 Single Vineyard Chardonnay.92/100 $50. It had a nutty and lifted peach aroma with juicy lemon lime palate finishing long and tangy.

The other was the 2020 Single Vineyard G2 Cabernet. 92/100. $55. Inky dark in colour, with bright crimson and purple hues. Powerful and long through the palate reflecting 40 year old vines and from the estate Gibb Road block. I reckon a drink window of only 5- 8 years which suits me fine.

The Cab/Malbec $45 is recommended too.

Driftwood Estate

Winemaker Kane Grove oversees 13 different varieties but overall reflected the regions staple of Chardonnay and Cabernet’s. The best was the 2020 Single Site Chardonnay 95/100. $80 but if you are a member of Costco it is available for $50! This is a beauty. Elegant with aromas of nectarine, citrus and vanilla. French oak give subtle finish to a creamy and stone fruit length. A buy.The other I recommend is the Artefacts Shiraz/Petit Verdot/Malbec/Cabernet blend. 90/100. VALUE $35. Rich berry fruits combine with soft tannins, crisp acidity and hints of pepper. The Heritage $35 classic blend of Petit Verdot/Malbec/Cabernet finished quite dry and a little short.

Wills Domain

Great wines from  – in my view – an understated vineyard. The premium wines of the Paladin Hill range really stood out. Wonderful. Loved the range. Let’s start with 2020 Paladin Hill Matrix  Cabernet Blend. 95/100. $100. Vibrant purple colour, perfumed, with lifted black currants on the nose finishing with a big chewy palate and soft lingering tannins. The French oak is beautifully integrated.

Another cracker was the 2021 Paladin Chardonnay. 95/100. $80. Hand picked, whole bunched pressed directly to barrels and 25% malolactic fermentation. 10% new oak and 9 months in barrel. Bottled in February this year. Pronounced limes with some lemon up front and a palate creamy and savoury. Finishes with pure lingering acidity. An outstanding Chardonnay.

Another two wines to include on your visit are the 2020 Eightfold Chardonnay with slight buttery malolactic fermentation and 2020 Cabernet, years ahead of it, both at $45.

 

What is Malolactic fermentation? (MLF).

You will have noticed we talk about malolactic fermintation, so let me explain. Nearly all red wines and some white wines (such as Chardonnay and Viognier) undergo malolactic fermentation. One way to recognize MLF in a wine is to note if it has a creamy, oily mid-palate texture. This can indicate malo. Another easy way to identify the malo is to see if the wine was aged in oak since MLF typically occurs while wines age in oak barrels.

It’s not uncommon for white wines to let only a small percentage of the wine have the malolactic conversion. This is a clever way of adding texture and body to the wine without losing too much of the positive floral and citrus aromas that waft off when white wines age in oak.

Clairault Streicker wines

Clairault Streicker has blocks in three of the Margaret River sub-regions – Yallingup, Wilyabrup and Karridale. The wines reflect each area. At the top end in the Ironstone range the old block chardonnay $50 and old block Cabernet $50 were agreeable.

The entry wines 2019 Chardonnay $28 and a 2018 Cabernet Merlot $22 (11% merlot) represent good value.

Domain NaturalisteDomaine Naturaliste Restaurant - Wilyabrup, , AU-WA | OpenTable

One of the highlights of the Margaret River visit. Winemaker Bruce Dukes turned on all his best Chardonnay and cabernets for the tasting. 2018 Flagship Morus Cabernet. 96/100. $87. Decorated by many reviewers. Aromas of violets and blueberries, ripe cassis black fruit, rich with a lovely balanced. 2021 Flagship Artus Chardonnay 97/100, VALUE $56. Gingin clone. Grapefruit and nectarine, highly textured with a beautiful finish. Yum. 2021  Flagship Purus Chardonnay. 97/100, VALUE $56. Bruce gives this a 4-8 drinking window. Suits me fine at my age. 2021 Floris Chardonnay.95/100. VALUE $36. Again lovely nectarine and floral notes. 2019 Rebus Cabernet. 95/100. VALUE $36. The same theme of black currents and hints of tobacco medium bodied and smooth all the way through the palate. Throw in the Cabernet Franc blend and you have the complete package from this vineyard.

Amelia Park

A winery I had not heard of before but certainly had a majestic cellar door. Jeremy Gordon, the winemaker has received numerous awards throughout his career including the Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy and the James Halliday Chardonnay Challenge. Along with these awards, he has won multiple trophies at high calibre wine shows such as Decanter World Wine Awards, National Wine Show of Australia, and the Margaret River Wine Show.

He was not available to host so Mike and Bree stepped up to the plate. They make 350,000 cases a year and on tasting were 24 wines covering 13 varieties.  Prices ranged from $18 – to one at $50. All were in the $20 – $35 range. I was told elsewhere that the prime market is mostly pubs, cafes and bistros. I may be wrong.

Fraser Gallop

The Fraser Gallop Estate suite of wines comprises Estate, Parterre and Palladian ranges. The winery was established in 1999 with the impressive cellar door added in 2008. Clive Otto the Chief winemaker, started his career in the West spending 16 years with Vasse Felix, so he knows his stuff. The 2021 Estate Cabernet with 13% Petit Verdot 92/100. VALUE $35 had a very attractive bouquet of red fruits, raspberry, redcurrant, cassis and cherries. Fresh, long, succulent and good length. Worth seeking out. The 2019 Parterre Cabernet. 89/100. $60 was overpriced compared to many Cabernets found elsewhere. In the top Palladian range the pick was the 2021 Chardonnay 95/100. $140. Dig deep for this one but you will be rewarded with a lemon focus and a citrus zing. Toasty oak is slightly present but not overdone. Great balance. Another expensive offering is the 2019 Palladian Cabernet. 88/100. $140. I had heard that this was outstanding but for me was green and stalky. May have been opened for a couple of days. Pity.

Mosswood

Always a delight to be in the hands of one of the regions elite vineyards. Here’s why. Maya, a French student who is studying a business degree in wine, traveled the 3 hours from Perth on a Sunday to open the cellar where all the tasting are conducted on a small table amongst the barrels and also the shed where the wines are packed and sent all over the world. You cannot just rock up as it is appointment only.

The popularity of Moss wood Cabernet holds no bounds. All flag ship Cabernets were sold out – usually within 6 weeks of release so get on the mailing list. Instead Maya showed tank samples of the 2023 Semillon and barrel samples of 2022 Chardonnay release Sept 2023, 2022 Pinot Noir release 2024 (grubby, harsh and unusual length), 2021 Cabernet release 2024.

What was available was the second tier Ribbon Vale range. Two stood out. 2020 Ribbon Vale Merlot 93/100. $76. Ripe plum and red rose lead to cassis, cherry/berry flavours with a backbone of ripe tannins and refreshing acidity. Needs a couple of years to blossom.  2020 Ribbon Vale Cabernet. 93/100. $76. Black fruit, dark chocolate and coffee. Medium to full-bodied, with chocolate and cedar.  Probably a 5-8 year window.

Pierro

Another vineyard with great outstanding  examples of Margaret River Chardonnay and Cabernets. Maria hosting on the cellar door explained that winemaker Mike Peterkin was not completely satisfied with the first three vintages of Chardonnay(1983-85), made using standard Australian winemaking practices, so he decided to make some radical changes and the Pierro Chardonnay style was born in the 1986 vintage. 

Today there are three distinct blocks of chardonnay on the property. About 95% of the Pierro Chardonnay is the Gingin clone, which, as explained at the top of the Blog produces the best quality wine in the region. I was not disappointed with the flagship. 

2019 Vintage Reserve Chardonnay. 96/100. $120. Worth every dollar. Peterkin holds back this wine for release in 2 years which shows how the wine can benefit from extra time in the bottle. this wine is now showing toasty butterscotch character with a lift of lemon and grapefruit finishing a minerally acidity. 10 year max drinking. The 2022 Fire Gully Chardonnay. 90/100. $36. Showed a sweet but fragrant nose more evidence of oak but was all butterscotch, pineapple and lemon. Of the reds the 2020 Fire Gully Cabernet Reserve. 96/100. VALUE $48, was lovely. Rich, long, medium drink now body, with layers of tobacco and olives.Finished long and lingering. Don’t pass the 2020 Cabernet/Merlot by either at $39.

Woodlands

I just adore wines from this producer and I was not disappointed. Sarah who hosted, was happy to show the whole range including the top end expensive Chardonnay and Cabernets.

Established in 1973, the vineyard specialises in Bordeaux blends and uses the same first plantings in 1973. I noticed that they are on Langton’s Classification of Fine Wines – if you believe in that stuff. The Houghton (see at top of Bloclone dominates the red wines.

There is no doubt the 2018 Margaret Blend 80% Cab/10% Merlot/10% Malbec. 96/100. VALUE $59 was great. Deep colour with blackberry prominent on the nose followed by a palate that was powerful exhibiting more blackberry but a long and velvety finish. The classy 2018 Ruby Jane Cabernet is $169 and the 2016 Clementine Eloise Cabernet $189 are for those who want to impress.

To save on the rack price you must be a Wine Club member. Now be warned, there are so many options to become a club member that it was confusing with all sorts of different categories and entry price points. It was a heavy sales spiel accompanied by an equally confusing colour brochure.

I hope you are still with me!

Woody Nook.

Woody Nook Wines (Margaret River): All You Need to Know An old fashion style cellar door, not like the flash modern tasting facilities which dominate the region.  I popped in here for a very generous platter lunch and to reacquaint myself the 2018 Gallagher’s Choice Cabernet 94/100. $55. which I purchase most years. Hand picked from 30+ year old vines, this is a classic, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon. It is vibrant and complex comprising blackcurrant, eucalypt  and well integrated French oak.   They also have an ‘Adopt a Vine’ program.  And 13 wines to suit all tastes.

Thompson Estate

Winemaker Peter Thompson was in Adelaide but took the time to conduct a tasting by video from his car! Brilliant innovation.

Two wines from a stable of 16 stood out. the 2022 Specialist Chardonnay 89/100. $38, minimum oak treatment  showed big early development while the 2018 (that year again) Estate Cabernet 90/100 VALUE $44 had all the hallmarks of the region. Another, the 2019 Specialist Cabernet 95/100. $76 deep crimson red and here comes that black current, jucicy flavours again  topped with chocolate.

This wine has won 6 gold medals from various Australian wine she and was the best cabernet at the 2021 Royal Melbourne Show.

Vasse Felix

I am told Vasse Felix contributes just 3% to Australia’s total wine production, however commands over 20% of the premium market. It has four sites around the region from which the range of Icon, Premier, Filius and Classic are made. Vasse Felix is Margaret River’s founding wine estate first planted in 1967.

A friend of mine organised vertical tasting of  8 wines in The Vault, an underground cellar with a flash, well decorated tasting room opposite. So let’s check out some of the wines.

2021 Icon Heytesbury Chardonnay, 90/100 $88. Only 6000 bottles made. Pronounced slight oak nose but carries the fruit right through the palate and will go for 15 years. 2021 Premier Chardonnay. 92/100. VALUE $36. 

Immediately crisp, and clean with bright acidity and a nice fruit line with a dry finish. Five year window, drink now. 2022 Filius Chardonnay. 89/100. $24. Bottled in January this year so has some development to go. Gingin clone, 36% new oak, friendly wine without too much length. 89/100. $24.

2019 Icon Tom Cullity.95/100.$160. 78% Cabernet, 22% Malbec. 56 year vines. Beautifully balanced, fruit explosion of black currant, chocolate and sweet aromatic oak finish which lingers. Needs time to open. Plus 10 years. If only I had the money. 2020 Premium Cabernet. 87/100. $44. 13% Malbec. Finishes very dry, and length drops away quickly. 2020 Filius Cabernet 87/100. $24. 5% Malbec. Made for a price point. Bright colour and fruity.

Juniper

Mark Messenger the winemaker has a stable of 27 wines across 6 ranges. Naturally I concentrated on the top ranges of Cornerstone and Heritage. 2016 Cornerstone Wiyabrup Cabernet. 87/100. $68. Full of chocolate and liquorice, too big and tannic. 2018 Heritage Aquitaine Cabernet Blend. 92/100. VALUE $34. Dense purple red in colour. Rich, ripe aromas of dark chocolate, with cherries lead into a medium-bodied palate. Plenty of cellaring potential. 2018 Karridale Cabernet. 93/100. $53. Deep red in colour, showing, vanilla, spice and cedar. Medium-bodied with dense blackberry and tremendous length. The 2021 Cornerstone Wilyabrup Chardonnay $45 was clean but dry and the 2020 Karridale Chardonnay had a slight barn yard nose. Very obliging cellar door who readily agreed to ship my assorted wines back to Melbourne.

 Summary

There is no doubt that this is the place for great Chardonnay and Cabernet. 2018 was one of the greatest years in Margaret River so always look out for wines of that year. Beware, almost all cellars charge a tasting fee per head – some $15, but refundable on purchase. Almost all will encourage you to join their Wine Club which does make the unit price per bottle much cheaper. That is of course you if don’t mind being bombarded with emails and telemarketers trying to sell you ‘specials’. Some of the Club membership offers were confusing such as the Woodlands experience so tread carefully. Vineyard of the trip goes to Domain Naturalist for quality and price.

Let me know what you think by responding in the comments section of the page. 

Posted in Wine tastings | Leave a comment

Wine grumblings into 2023

Posted on March 21, 2023 by The Wine Commander

Welcome to 2023 and the highs and lows that us consumers will face towards 2024. I have a few gripes which I will share.

 Here are six wine issues I’d like to say goodbye to as we look ahead to next year:

1. Wine Quality

Overall wine quality has never been higher than it is today; it’s easy to find a good wine just about anywhere. But that doesn’t mean there isn’t bad wine around. You may already have consumed some during Christmas and the New Year particularly if stingy relatives  bring cheap supermarket of liquor chain bargains.

I’ve noticed all the bad wine in the world seems to have been packaged into tiny bottles or worst, colourful glaring labels begging you to” buy me”.

Like so many of you, I am not seduced by the cute packaging, only to be disappointed each time. I’ve had unspeakable red wines, bitter white wines and some truly terrible sparkling wines packaged in a festive disguise.

 2. Terrible Tasting Notes

When I write a wine tasting note, my goal is simple: I want to convey to a would-be drinker how the wine tastes. Is it fruity? Is it light to medium-bodied? Does it have a lot of acidity and/or tannin?

The words that I use tend to be direct, not dramatic. I don’t find heavenly choir descriptions applied to a wine to be particularly useful. Mostly they seem a bit self-indulgent on the part of the author.

And yet some wine writers and critics regularly offer up descriptions that leave me baffled and even confused. Take, for example, the first two lines of a tasting note written by one well-known critic: “This  champagne comes onto the palate like a lightning bolt that splits the night sky in two. Electric and alive, the flavors—lime zest, vanilla bean, oyster shell, and wet rock—are fast and engulfing.”

I’ve had the Champagne in question. My tasting note would say something more like “medium-bodied with vibrant notes of pear and spice.” No lightning bolt there.

3. ‘Natural Wine’

I have no objection to the word natural, nor to the word wine, I just don’t think the two should be conjoined. To me this is especially important because it doesn’t seem that anyone can agree on what exactly a natural wine is or should be.

I looked up the term and  found quite a few variations on the definition. Even more important, if such a thing as a “natural” wine exists, there must naturally be a counterpart in opposition to which it is defined. What is that? A nonnatural wine? An unnatural wine?

 4. Wine List Markups

The price of wine, particularly wine sold in restaurants, has spiked over the last year – there is no doubt about that! Built into that price hike are the costs of shipping, glass bottles, hefty mortgages on flashy cellar doors and even wine labels, all of which have increased—but not to the extent some restaurateurs would have their customers believe.

Markups on wine have been considerable this past year, and in the case of some restaurants, particularly outrageous. I just don’t think that it’s necessary, let alone a way to build good will or long-term clientele, to charge diners $35 for a glass of non-vintage Champagne when the bottle costs about that same price retail.

 I know it’s been a very challenging time for restaurants, that food and labour costs have increased and that wine is traditionally the basis of meeting a bottom line. But does a wine list’s bottle prices have to be five times their wholesale LUC cost? Do you feel the same?

5. Wine Education

Look for qualified Sommeliers. If in doubt just ask them.

 6. Inflated scoring system

The terror of the wine-retail world is a wine that has been awarded a rare 85-point score by some expert or other. Just try to find one in your local wine shop. There are virtually no wines on store shelves today advertising such a lowly numerical score. Yet they exist.

If a bottle on a retail store shelf bears a number at all, it will likely be a score of 90 points or higher or wears a sticker of gold silver or bronze. Now be careful here and try and read the award it represents. It can be from a class that attracts few entries in a regional wine show. I tend to view these skeptically.

Once upon a time when Len Evens or James Halliday awarded a wine of 90 points or more there would be a rush to buy. Now almost all wines score 90 plus in tasting notes reflecting commercial interests, advertising deals, favoured producers or free bottles delivered to the reviewers door. I agree winemaking skills have improved over the last 20 or so years but this is not in line with the present high scoring.

I’ve purchased more than my share of underperforming high-scoring wines. In many cases, I’ve come away convinced that the impressive numbers, have been bestowed by critics who write for publications that must reflect a high score. Now we don’t want to upset anyone do we?

My recommendation is the reviewers reduce their scoring template to reflect if a wine scores 92 – it is truely a wonderful wine.

By the way WineState Magazine has folded after 45 years and 318 issues. Grab the last issue now. Shame.

Let me know your gripes in the comments section on this page.

Posted in Features | Leave a comment